【義酒聞】義大利侍酒師協會 AIS 2019 Vitae 年鑑四藤獎另類圖解

10 月 20 日,義大利侍酒師協會 Associazione Italiana Sommelier (簡稱 AIS) 在米蘭舉辦了一場盛大的品酒活動,AIS 藉著這場活動讓 2019 Vitae 年鑑正式亮相,同時讓期盼已久的葡萄酒愛好者能一次見到/品到所有得到最高評分 4 Viti (四藤奬) 的酒款。

四藤奬的名單在義大利侍酒師協會官網即可下載,而我仍然想從比較不一樣的角度來看看 2019 的名單。

In a nutshell: Oct. 20th 2019 Associazione Italiana Sommerlier (AIS) announced officially its annual wine guide VITAE by hosting a grand tasting of all wines received highest award Quattro Viti.  While the complete list can be downloaded from AIS Italy website, I want to look at the list in an analytical way. 

Photo: courtesy AIS Italy


義大利侍酒師協會的 2019 年鑑中,品嚐了約 2000 酒莊的 15,000 酒款;總共給了 614 酒款四藤獎,其中 DOCG 等級酒款佔 41%、DOC 酒款 36%,剩下的 23% 是 IGT或餐桌酒等級酒款。

For VITAE 2019 AIS claimed to have tasted more than 15,000 wines from more than 2,000 wineries. The final result is 614 wines of 580 winers) receive highest award QUATTRO VITI, including 252 DOCG wines (c.a. 41%), 223 DOC wines (36%) and rest 139 wines are either IGT or VdT.  

從分區來看,皮埃蒙特與托斯卡尼兩大區的酒款佔了近 40% 的四藤獎,顯然是 2019 Vitae 四藤獎的兩大贏家,特倫蒂諾-上阿迪杰區聯手以 53 酒款居第三位,弗留利 Friuli Venezia Giulia 與威尼托 Veneto 各以超過 40 款緊追在後,當然不能忘的還有倫巴底 Lombardia 的 39 款。

皮埃蒙特的 Barolo 產區共有 61 款酒獲四藤獎酒款,也是單一獲獎最多的 DOCG/DOC 產區,而 Brunello di Montalcino 以 31 酒款列居托斯卡尼大區內獲獎最多的 DOCG/DOC 產區,此外,托斯卡尼大區中還有 34 款列為 Toscana IGT 酒款。

Looking at the regions, Piedmont and Tuscany come closely head-to-head, taking in total 40% of all awarded. The third place falls to Trentino Alto-Adige  (administrative region) with 53 Quattro Viti wines, followed by Friuli Venezia Giulia (43), Veneto (42), and Lombardia (39).  

佔了約 65% 的紅酒是四藤獎的重心,白酒約 22%,傳統法氣泡酒 31 款約佔 5%,甜酒36 款約佔 6%。402 款四藤獎紅酒中,以 nebbiolo 為主要品種的共 104 款,其中 9 款來自 Valtellina 產區;以 sangiovese 為主共有 74 款,除了托斯卡納的酒款外,義大利侍酒師協會更給予翁布里亞 (Umbria) 及羅馬涅 (Romangna) 正面肯定。其餘較受肯定的 (原生) 紅葡萄品種包括 Aglianico、Montelpulciano、Barbera、Teroldego、Primitivo 等。

Red wines are largely awarded, taking up almost 65% while awarded Quattro Viti white wines are 22%, desert/sweet wines 6% and Traditional Method Sparkling wines 5%.  Look deeply into 402 awarded red wines, I found nebbiolo and sangiovese are 2 major varieties which is fairly in line with the fact that Piedmont & Tuscany are 2 winning regions. Noted, however, that in nebbiolo based wines, there are 9 from Lombardia’s Valtellina while in sangiovese based wines, AIS certainly views positively those from Umbria & Romagna.  Other (red) grape varieties stand out are Aglianico, Montepulciano, Barbera, Teroldego, Primitivo etc.

相較於紅葡萄品種似乎一面倒的狀況,白葡萄品種的分佈顯然零散許多,混釀白葡萄酒佔絕對多數,而以單一品種來看,Sauvignon、Friulano 為主的酒款各佔一片天,Verdicchio、Trebbiano、Pinot Bianco、Fiano 也有自己的擁護者。

Blend white wines are definitely the majority. When look at mono-variety, Sauvignon, Friulano, Verdicchio, Trebbiano, Pinot Bianco all perform wonderfully. As for Quattro Viti 2019, Friuli Venezia Giulia is definitely the white wine region: 37 out of 43 awarded are white. Alto Adige also has high percentage on white: 21 out of 35. Campania & Marche both have 13 white wines awarded which take roughly 50% of region’s awarded total.

每個大區獲獎酒款的比例 different wine types in percentage by region

義大利侍酒師協會給予 36 款甜酒四藤獎肯定著實令人興奮,包括了許多小而美的酒款,例如,特倫蒂諾以 Nosiola 品種釀的 Vino Santo、弗留利的 Picolit、威尼托的 Fior d’Arancio、上阿迪杰的 Moscato Rosa 以及西西里以 Zibbibo 釀的的 Pantelleria 等。對了,還有幾款 Marsala 酒也被授與四藤獎!下一篇,我會將大紅蝦指南跟義大利侍酒師協會年鑑的名單做個比較。

One worth noticing fact is that 36 desert/sweet wines receive Quattro Viti 2019, including many small wine regions, such as Trentino’s Vino Santo (made of Nosiola grape), Friuli Collio Orientale’s Picolit Passito, Veneto Colli Euganei’s Fior d’Arancio Passito, Alto Adige’s Moscato Rosa, Sicily’s Pantelleria Passito etc.  Not to forget that some Marsala wines are awarded as well.  In next article, I’ll compare the lists of Tre Bicchieri and Quattro Viti and share few of my thoughts.

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