【義酒聞】另類圖解三杯 vs 四藤

前兩篇我將大紅蝦 Vini d’Italia 年鑑中的三杯獎跟義大利侍酒師協會 Vitae 葡萄酒年度指南的四藤獎做了個別分析,這一篇,將兩份名單從數字分析的角度做個比較。

Following previous 2 separate analyses about Tre Bicchieri & Quattro Viti, I put both lists side-by-side and found something quite interesting.

兩個不同單位的年鑑,使用的評分標準不同,結果自然也不同,比對兩份名單後可發現,有 170 間酒莊同時出現在大紅蝦跟義大利侍酒師協會 AIS 的名單中,但其中僅有 92 款酒,同時受到三杯獎與四藤獎。

Even though AIS and Gambero Rosso are 2 different organisations using different criteria, I found that both lists have 170 wineries in common and only 92 of them are awarded both by Tre Bicchieri and Quattro Viti for the same wine.

從大區獲獎的酒款數量來看,明顯地看出 AIS 給予皮埃蒙特及托斯卡納大區四藤獎酒款較大紅蝦三杯獎酒款多出許多,但若從比例分佈來看,托斯卡納大區獲獎酒款在兩份名單中都約佔 19%,AIS 似乎較偏好皮埃蒙特大區 (20% vs. 大紅蝦 16%),而大紅蝦則給西西里 (6% vs. AIS 3%) 及威尼托 (9% vs. AIS 7%) 更多些關注。

When looking at absolute numbers, one might think that there are lots of Quattro Viti awarded wines in Piedmont & Tuscany. Yet if we look at percentage, both lists seem to agree on Tuscany – the region actually takes about 19% of total awarded wines. On the other hand, AIS seems to pay slightly higher attention to Piedmont while Gambero Rosso values a bit more Sicily and Veneto.

從紅白酒獲獎的比例來看,不論是大紅蝦三杯獎名單或 AIS 四藤獎名單中,獲獎紅葡萄酒比例都超過半數,但 AIS 似乎較大紅蝦更偏重紅葡萄酒 (65.5%);獲獎白葡萄酒款在兩份名單中均約 140 款,但在大紅蝦三杯獎名單中佔有較明顯的比重,值得注意的是 AIS 明顯地更注重甜酒款 (6%)。若細看各個大區獲獎紅白酒款的分佈,許多大區似乎都以紅酒款為重,其中皮埃蒙特與托斯卡納更為明顯,弗留利及上阿迪杰區則是以白葡萄酒為主的代表,倫巴底跟特倫蒂諾則以氣泡酒款為多,而坎帕尼亞、翁布里亞及威尼托則較平均分配。

One notable fact is that red wines are highly awarded, yet proportionally speaking AIS seems to award more reds (65.5%) while Gambero Rosso whites (31.6%). Worth noticing also that 6% of Quattro Viti are desert wines which counts only 1.5% of Tre Bicchieri.  When dive into each region, reds are the majority for many except Friuli Venezia Giulia & Alto Adige where whites are dominant. Trentino & Lombardia are no doubt 2 regions with great amount of excellent sparkling wine – traditional methods.  

在 AIS 四藤獎名單中,Barolo 便佔了所有獲獎酒款的 10%,相較於大紅蝦三杯獎的 4%;若細看獲獎 Barolo 的年份,四藤獎中 2014 有 34 款,三杯獎中僅 9 款,大紅蝦表示這與 2014 年氣候不佳有關,但從獲獎數看來 AIS 抱持著相當不同的看法。在托斯卡尼大區內,大紅蝦三杯獎略偏 Chianti Classico,而 AIS 四藤獎較重 Brunello di Montalcino,更大方地擁抱列在 Toscana IGT 內的各種混釀酒款。

In one of its web articles, Gambero Rosso mentioned that due to the unfavourable vintage of 2014, fewer Nebbiolo based wines in Piedmont are awarded.  Yet looking at Quattro Viti list, AIS seems to have a different opinion. In particular, there are total 61 Barolo (about 10%)  awarded, in which 34 wines from 2014 vintage, comparing to 9 wines of 2014 awarded Tre Bicchieri. Within Tuscany, Gambero Rosso seems to appreciate Chianti Classico more while AIS to Brunello di Montalcino. 

細看紅葡萄酒的主要釀酒品種 (指品種比例超過 85%),四藤獎名單中以 Nebbiolo 為主的酒款過百,幾乎是所有紅酒款的 26%,若扣除 9 款 Valtellina 的酒款,仍有 95 款來自皮埃蒙特,相較於三杯獎中的 42 款。除了 Nebbiolo 及 Sangiovese 這兩大葡萄品種外,Aglianico、Montepulciano 及 Barbera 也都有著相當不錯的表現。幾個所謂的國際品種如 Pinot Nero、Cabernet Sauvignon、Cabernet Franc、Merlot 及 Syrah,各有一小片天,但我更希望看到更多專注於原生品種的酒款。

As for the main variety (over 85%), within red wines Nebbiolo is the champion variety for AIS Quattro Viti and Sangiovese for Gambero Rosso. Others like Southern Italy’s Aglianico, Central Italy’s Montepulciano and Barbera are all performing well.  Quite a number of awarded wines are made of international varieties – Pinot Nero, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot & Syrah, but I do hope to see more native variety made wines been awarded as excellency in the future.

2019 獲獎白葡萄酒款中,AIS 與大紅蝦都偏好混釀的白葡萄酒,對於單一品種則是青菜豆腐各取所好,Friulano 及 Sauvignon 獲四藤獎較多,而 Pinot Bianco、Verdicchio 及 Vermentino 則穩拿三杯獎。Trebbiano 品種家族中,翁布里亞的 Trebbiano Spolentino 及靠近加達湖的 Trebbiano di Lugana 也都受到酒評們的關注。

As for white wines, there’s no one absolute winning variety while both lists are largely appraised blend white wines. Friulano & Sauvignon seem to catch more AIS’ attention while Gambero Rosso glorifies Pinot Bianco, Verdicchio & Vermentino.  

臉書留言

一般留言

發表迴響

你的電子郵件位址並不會被公開。

這個網站採用 Akismet 服務減少垃圾留言。進一步瞭解 Akismet 如何處理網站訪客的留言資料