【義酒聞】Gambero Rosso 大紅蝦 2019 三杯獎另類圖解

每年的秋天,大概也是各家年鑑準備上市的季節,在正式上市之前,大多會先公開最高分/最高榮譽獎項的名單,許多人認識的大紅蝦 Gambero Rosso 年鑑也從九月開始在網站陸續分區宣布三杯奬酒款,讓義大利酒迷們先睹為快。

一般都是直接看名單,不過我想換個方式來聊聊 2019 的三杯獎名單。

In a nutshell: Before announcing officially its annual guide, Gambero Rosso, one of the most influential media in food & wine industry in Italy, publishes previews of Tre Bicchieri (highest evaluated wines) of each region.  It would be no fun (for me personally) just to publish lists as they are, so I’ve decided to make some “analysis” based on the lists.

2019 年鑑中的三杯獎給了 450 酒款 (約所有品鑑酒款中的 2%),從分區來看,托斯卡納 Toscana 得獎酒款最多 (84),其次為皮埃蒙特 Piemonte (74),產量向來驚人的威尼托 Veneto (41) 居第三位,特倫蒂諾-上阿迪杰 Trentino-Alto Adige (11+25) 聯手緊追在後。南義部分地區雖看似較少獲獎酒款,但其實也越來越多酒莊改走精品路線,推出更多耐人尋味的酒款。

Based on its website article, Gambero Rosso claimed that for 2019 guide, nearly 23,000 wines from roughly 2,500 wines have been tasted: 450 wines (roughly 2%) are awarded Tre Bicchieri.  Tuscany with its 84 Tre bicchieri is most awarded region, followed by Piedmont (74), Veneto (41) and Trentino- Alto Adige (36).

從分級制度來看,所有的三杯獎中 DOCG 及 DOC等級仍佔多數,但不可忽略的是仍有許多酒莊並不在乎分級,釀造一樣令人驚艷的酒款。

While looking at classification, DOCG/DOC wines are still the majority. Yet with 14% of Tre Bicchieri are wines in IGT or VdT classification means (to me) that experts do like how some Italian winemakers remain creative in interpreting their terrior. Chianti Classico (21) and Barolo (20) are most awarded DOCG regions, followed by Brunello di Montalcino and Barbaresco (both 14).

三杯獎中紅酒款約佔 60%,紅酒款中獲獎最多的產區分別是 Chianti Classico (不包括 Chianti) 及 Barolo,接著為 Brunello di Montalcino 及 Barbaresco。獲獎酒款中約有 10% 是帶有氣泡的酒款 (但不包括 Moscato d’Asti),其中有 25 款以傳統香檳法釀造,分別為 9 款 Franciacorta、7 款 TrentoDoc、3 款 Oltrepò Pavese Metodo Classico、Alta Langa 一款,及另外四款不屬於特定分級的氣泡酒。

Nearly 60% of Tre Bicchiere are red wines, 31% white wine and 10% sparkling wine. Within 39 awarded sparkling wines, 25 are made with Traditional Method (Metodo Classico), including 9 Franciacorta, 7 TrentoDoc, 3 Oltrepò Pavese Metodo Classico, 1 Alta Langa and 4 others. Only 7 sweet wines are awarded Tre Bicchieri which makes me wonder. 


根據大紅蝦網站新聞表示,2019 葡萄酒年鑑品嚐約 2500 間酒莊,近 2 萬 3 千不同酒款,這數字跟 11 月初即將在台北舉辦的 Road Show 新聞稿資料略異,但並不重要,我比較想知道的是,有多少酒款得到二杯獎?產區酒款分佈等等,日後若有這些資料,做起分析來也應該會更有趣。另一個觀察到的細節,大紅蝦的三杯獎名單中,每個酒莊都只有一款酒獲獎,我猜測應該是大紅蝦的政策,畢竟有許多酒莊旗下的超級好酒不止一款才是。

One observation: 450 wines from 450 wineries are awarded Tre Bicchieri.  Does that mean each winery has only ONE super wine? My guess is it’s Gambero Rosso’s policy to select just one because some wineries are definitely capable of making several breath taking wines. 

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