Yoji Tokuyoshi，旅居義大利十多年的日本籍主廚，對義大利料理界來說並不是個陌生的名字，他，曾是 Massimo Bottura 最得意的副手，2015 年在米蘭市區開了他自己的餐廳 TOKUYOSHI。
Yoji Tokuyoshi, a name that is not unfamiliar tone Italian culinary world as he was once the Sou Chef of Massimo Bottura, has finally opened his own restaurant in a quiet street next to the busy center of Milan.
推門進入深綠色調的餐廳，Tokuyoshi 主廚也在迎賓列隊中，他身後的牆面上有個十分醒目的大圓燈，另外還有一張配著高腳椅的長桌。一整晚下來，主廚其實都在這個長桌旁、靠近廚房出口的位置，檢視著每一盤料理即將上桌的料理，有著壽司師傅在客人面前備餐的影子。
Overall dark green tone, chef Tokuyoshi was at the door with the staff to welcome when we entered. It’s hard to ignore the sun-alike illuminated decor on the wall and the long table in front of it. I’ve noticed that’s almost where the Chef stands during the evening. Somehow it feels like looking at a ‘traditional’ sushi chef, preparing with concentration every dish in front of diners.
Chef Tokuyoshi 將自己的餐廳定位為 Cucina Italian Contaminata (contaminated Italian cuisine)，一點也不客氣地宣揚對義大利料理的熱愛，又謙虛地以 contaminated 來表示他帶來的異國 (日本) 料理、飲食元素是對義式料理的一種玷污。
The positioning of Restaurant Tokuyoshi is an interesting interpretation of fusion. Cucina Italiana Contaminata, I saw chef Tokuyoshi ‘loudly’ proclaims his passion (and profession) for Italian cuisine and humbly calls the infusion of his Japanese elements a “contamination”.
其實在義大利的 fine dining 餐廳，日本 (或部分亞洲) 食材或料理元素都不是陌生者，包括 Osteria Francescana 的料理中，也可見到些許 Tokuyoshi 帶來日式飲食的影子。我其實不擔心這樣的 fusion，我倒是比較擔心在 Tokuyoshi 的料理中，看到太多 Bottura 的影子。
I have no problem with fusion, especially some Asian ingredients are already often used in Italian fine dining. Also at Osteria Francescana where chef Tokuyoshi worked for almost 9 years, some Japanese elements were also introduced. Be honest I do somehow concern that I would see/taste too much of Bottura.
- Bruschetta di Cannocchie
- Cannolicchi nel Porro
- Sarde bruciate non bruciate
- Scampi a Merenda
- Lumache & Anguille nella Vigna
- Risotto alla Milanese Sempre Croccante
- Maialino da Latte
- Pre Desert
- Cemento & Terra
不論是每一道料理的名字，或者擺盤方式來說，的確，Tokuyoshi 仍受 Bottura 相當大的影響，但從味道及對料理的詮釋來說，Tokuyoshi 也確實開始進化，更多義日衝擊下的驚奇與火花。我蠻喜歡 Tokuyoshi 主廚在上每道料理的同時，也會附上一小杯高湯的日式作法，每杯高湯扮演的角色不一定，有些讓料理更均衡、有些則更提升料理的味道。不是所有的味道都符合義大利人的喜好，像是那道蝸牛料理中鮮明的土味，或是那道前甜點使用的辛香料，但絕大多數試過那道 Risotto alla Milanese Sempre Croccante (永遠爽脆的米蘭式燉飯) 及 Maialino da Latte (嫩煮乳豬)，應該都會同意，再訪 Tokuyoshi 是行事曆上可以預期的約會。
From some points of view, chef Tokuyoshi definitely a good apprentice of maestro Bottura, particularly the naming of dishes, the presentation etc. Yet I was still positively surprised by the evolution of this Itao-Giappo clash. With each dish, chef Tokuyoshi serves a small glass of different soup, which echoes certain part of his Japanese root. Each soup plays a different role: some elevate the flavores, some compensate while others harmonize. I absolutely enjoyed different sensations these soup brought. Like many other things, you just cannot expect everyone to like everything. Some key flavores are a challenge for some my Italian friends but others are equally shocking positive way. Oh, if you ever tasted his Risotto alla Milanese Sempre Croccante or Maialino da Latte, I don’t see why you won’t make a space in your agenda for the possible return.
Ristorante Tokuyoshi http://www.ristorantetokuyoshi.com/
Address: Via San Calocero 3, 20123 (Mi)
Email: [email protected] Tel. +390284254626 (如欲前往用餐，請務必事先訂位)
Opening Hours: Tue.-Sat. 19:00 – 22:30 / Sunday 12:30 – 15:00, 19:00 – 22:30
