旅徙|Travel

【Rome‧Italy】Santa Maria della Vittoria

如果你是大師貝里尼 (Gianlorenzo Bernini) 的粉絲,那麼你應該會對羅馬旅遊局 (Comune di Roma tourism) 出版的旅遊指南 Bernini in Rome 感到興趣。薄薄的小冊子中介紹了放置了貝里尼重要作品的 17 個景點,其中第二個應前往的地點就是這座位在十字路口、也不甚起眼的 Santa Maria della Vittoria。

Fountain of Moses
Fountain of Moses

若從 Piazza Barberini 延著 Via Barberini 向上爬坡,走路大約十分鐘便遇到一個交通繁忙的十字路口,第一眼看到的應該是 Fountain of Moses。這天我則是先回到 hostel 將快陣亡的相機充好電之後,再搭延著 via XX Settembre 行駛的公車到這座教堂。這座教堂建於 17 世紀初期,但在 19 世紀中 (西元 1833 年) 因一場大火而半毀,現在看到的則是已經重建過後的教堂。教堂內部是巴洛克風格的極致,其中最重要的便是貝里尼於 1646 年所設計的 Cornaro Chapel,在這裡展出的正是貝里尼最著名的作品 Ecstasy of St. Teresa of Ávila。

這個作品的主角是阿維拉的聖特雷薩 (St. Teresa of Ávila) 及一名天使,故事的背景起源於聖特雷薩的自傳中的一段關於她與上帝的相遇。她寫著她看到一名年輕美麗的天使,帶著柔和的光芒來到她的身旁,天使的手中拿著一支箭,箭尖上似乎有著火光。他突然地將箭插入了她的胸口,在快速將箭抽出的同時,將她體內不好的帶走,只留下上帝的愛。貝里尼的作品將這一段文字化成了影像,在他的作品中,聖特雷薩的表情充滿著喜悅,這是天使已經將箭抽出她胸口後的那一刻。

這座教堂在最近湧入了許多觀光客,據說是拜 Dan Brown 的那本以義大利為背景的小說 Angels and Demons 所賜,在書中 Santa Maria della Vittoria 的 Ecstasy of St. Teresa of Ávila 便是重要的景點之一。

Quotation from Wikipedia (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ecstasy_of_St_Theresa)
“I saw in his hand a long spear of gold, and at the iron’s point there seemed to be a little fire. He appeared to me to be thrusting it at times into my heart, and to pierce my very entrails; when he drew it out, he seemed to draw them out also, and to leave me all on fire with a great love of God. The pain was so great, that it made me moan; and yet so surpassing was the sweetness of this excessive pain, that I could not wish to be rid of it. The soul is satisfied now with nothing less than God. The pain is not bodily, but spiritual; though the body has its share in it. It is a caressing of love so sweet which now takes place between the soul and God, that I pray God of His goodness to make him experience it who may think that I am lying.” Chapter XXIX; Part 17, Teresa’s Autobiography–The Life of St. Teresa of Jesus (1515-1582)

You Might Also Like